PSM eccentric bushing install.

This a thorough DIY write-up on the PSM eccentric rack bushings.
You will need:
An impact gun or a ratchet/breaker either works
An extension
A 17mm socket (doesn’t need to be deep)
And possibly a flat head screwdriver (to pry out the triangular side if stubborn)
This is a fairly quick and easy install and takes about 10-30 depending on the tool you use to loosen and remove the bolts. Now first things first! Make sure you put your car on jack stands for safety.
Next you will then loosen all 4 bolts.
After all the bolts are off the clamps should be loose and you should be able to remove them. I didn’t get a chance to take a shot of the old bushing removal but it’s quite easy. It should slide right off. Here’s what mines looked like(poly bushing)
Since the bolts are off and bushings are gone you now have plenty of room to move the rack up and down. I went ahead and slid the bottom part the triangular side in first and put the triangle top as well. I then loosely screwed the two bolts on to the clamp so it guides it, but gives the passenger side of the rack wiggle room.

I then did the same for the passenger side. Once everything was lined up I then tightened the triangular bushing first as this was the guide for the passenger side. The clamp makes it so that the bushing never moves even though it’s in two pieces. The torque spec is 65-80 ftlbs.
You can then line the passenger side up so that it is identical to the opposing side. I got it as close as I can on where the halves meet on the rack.
Here’s a shot of the final product.
The clamp for the triangular side sits flush after tightening. However, the opposing side will leave a gap due to its bulkiness. As you tighten it to its torque spec it should bend close to flush like so.
That is about all the info you need to install the PSM rack bushings properly. If you have any more info I missed or if there’s anything I messed up just leave a comment. Thanks and enjoy.